Saturday, 29 September 2012

Self Portraiture

Guest Post By Mariesol


First of all I would like to introduce myself: My name is Mariesol, better known as "SunnyMarry" and I work as a self-portrait-photographer most of the time. So the big deal in most of the shots is to set everything before I take the picture with my remote, because I cannot see the picture when I take it. I need to set everything up before, like sharpening, lightening and after all I have to find the right place in front of the camera, so it focusses on me.

self portraiture
Photo By Mariesol

As you can see on the "Before"-Picture of "Don't die wondering" I simply used a little piece of red cloth to create the red dress. It is about 1 x 1,5 m large, but that is indeed enough to make it look huge!

So the first step was to take the "Basis-Photo", that should show a woman with a dress on a field. And since I always had been a great fan of photographs with shaking hair ( this is adding so much dynamic), this also had be part in my image.

The second step is to make the dress grow. What you need to do for that is take some additional shots, where you only capture the red cloth as you shake it. I added a behind the scenes-photo from that, too. These "shaking-photos" are something like your stock-images for the dress. It is really important to take these images right after you took the "Basis-Photo" because you need similar lights, contrasts and colours for the cloth, too - that will save you a lot of work in the post-processing.

self portrait
Capturing the flowing garment

And that will the the third step for this image: Collect the best shots of the jolted cloth and fit them into your picture as little parts of cloth! This takes some time, because it is kind of hard to make it look real- it is important to mind perspective, colours and contrasts.

self portraiture tips
before and after blending

Additionally I changed the sky in the background to make it look more interesting and dynamic and I also added some birds, saturated the picture (especially the red dress) higher and I always use to vignette the corners of my pictures dark, that makes you focus more on the middle of the picture :-)

self portraiture tutorial
before and after comparison shots

Friday, 28 September 2012

Adobe Photoshop Tutorials A small Hero

Guest Post By:  Giuseppe Parisi

Digital Matte Painting / Illustration:

50% Hand Painting, 50% Photo references

photographic material blended with digital paint done in photoshop to simulate photo-realistic scenes


Adobe Photoshop CS4 and Wacom Intuos4 Tablet

Adobe Photoshop Tutorials A small Hero
Adobe Photoshop Tutorials A small Hero By:  Giuseppe Parisi

A lone climber on the edge of a high mountain, beholding the landscape in the mist at the sunset.

Watch the Making of A Small Hero Video:


 

Photography Trick Heart Shaped Shadow on a Book With a Ring

The heart shaped shadow is a classic photographic effect that interests many beginner photographers to try it. This is also a very simple trick and requires not much equipment. Only things you need to perform this trick are:
  1. A light source – an off camera flash or strobe will do; for those who does not have access to these a table lamp or even sunlight during morning and evening hours will do.
  2. A Ring – any circular object will do
  3. A Book – preferably a large book with hard binding. A thicker book works better because when open, the pages curve more thereby creating a rounder heart.
 In this example I shot all the frames with a single table lamp as my light source. It had in it a 60 watt bulb. (Milky white / frosted white).

Even though I was shooting in RAW format, the white balance of the camera was set to Tungsten. If you are shooting in Jpeg this point is all the more important as you cannot adjust your white balance settings later while post-processing.

Placement of light is what determines the shape of the shadow, best method to find out the right light placement is to first fix the ring on the book, take the table lamp in your hand and move it to see how the shadow shapes, fix it at the position that looks the best.

The most difficult part of this experiment is to make the ring stand straight on the book. I had to try many times to get it right, but I managed without using any adhesive or modelling clay or anything.

While selecting the book for this trick try to select one with some meaningful text that could create a context for the shot, eg religious books, medical journals etc. The book i used was the Oxford Advanced Learners Dictionary.

First I tried the heart shadow with my gold ring, I kind of like the effect of gold colour on the black and white scene.

heart shaped shadow photography trick
Golden Ring - also used of narrow aperture for increased depth of field

To make the above picture a narrow aperture was used. But i chose to shoot the rest of the frames using a wide open aperture of f/2.8.

Next I used a 52mm UV filter ring to make my heart shadow. It produced shadows with very thin borders.

photographic trick heart shaped shadow of a ring
52 mm UV filter used to create the heart shape

The inside of the heart shape was given a reddish colour in photoshop. Also the ring used is a wooden bangle which is broader than the UV filter used in the picture given above.

creating heart shape on a book with a ring photography trick
colour of heart shadow changed in photoshop

A much broader plastic ring was used for this, it was green in colour, but I didn't like the feel of it so the picture was converted to black and white with increased contrast.

book ring and heart photographic trick
Picture was converted to black and white

 Two rings of different diameters one standing and the other resting.


how to create a heart shaped shadow on a book photography trick
two rings used for multiple shadows - one standing, one lying

Both rings in resting position, one in the center of the other.

how to create a heart shaped shadow on a book
two rings used for multiple shadows - both lying

A variation of the earlier example with a broader ring. The image was also cropped in square format.

photography trick creating heart shape on a book with a ring
to rings used for multiple heart shapes one broader than the other

Set-up Shots



heart shape on a book with a ring photography trick
Set up Shots - Heart Shaped Shadow - Photography Trick


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Thursday, 27 September 2012

Adobe Photoshop Tutorials Time Portal

Guest Post By:  Giuseppe Parisi

Digital Matte Painting / Illustration:

50% Hand Painting, 50% Photo references

photographic material blended with digital paint done in photoshop to simulate photo-realistic scenes


Adobe Photoshop CS4 and Wacom Intuos4 Tablet

Adobe Photoshop Tutorials Time Portal
Adobe Photoshop Tutorials Time Portal By:  Giuseppe Parisi

Watch the Making of Time Portal Video:

 

Wednesday, 26 September 2012

Adobe Photoshop Tutorials Shatter and Flee

Guest Post By:  Giuseppe Parisi 

Digitally Enhanced Portrait + Matte Painting Background

Model: Federica

Adobe Photoshop Tutorials Shatter and Flee
Adobe Photoshop Tutorials Shatter and Flee By:  Giuseppe Parisi
A beautiful girl sitting on her bed and witnessing the destruction of a city at the window, as a projection of her thoughts turned into reality.

This image is a digitally enhanced portrait which is enriched with details given by real photographs and hand/painted elements, wisely merged and manipulated to create a very realistic looking picture.

Matte Painting info:


Model photo in the room + buildings stock images + my own stock + Hand Painting [50%]

Lighting info:


1 butterlight lightning and 1 side fill.
----- Canon 580 Ex II in shot-through umbrella 45° above the model @1/1 out of the window

----- Nikon sb-26 in shot-though umbrella on the side of model as fill light @1/8
Triggered via Skyport.

Exif Data:


Canon 5D Mark II + Canon 16-35mm f/2.8L IS II
Adobe Photoshop CS4 and Wacom Intuos4 Tablet

Watch the Making of Shatter and Flee Video:

 

How to Maximize Impact When Using Wide Angle Lenses


Most wide angle scenes taken by amateur photographers fail to make an impression on the audience due to lack of interesting elements in the frame. Photographing wide open spaces usually ends up in a picture with lots of small detail and no particular element to catch the viewer’s attention.

wide angle
Photo By Justin Tippins


The trick to overcoming such issues when using wide angle lenses is to look for depth rather than width. Learn to resist the temptation to take whole of the scene, instead move in close to your subject, and place an interesting element in the foreground. Make sure the foreground element takes up at least a quarter of the picture frame, you could use anything available on the scene like a piece of driftwood, rock formations, a small bush etc or add an element like a person, a clump of blooms, an animal, a vehicle etc.

wideangle
Photo By Henri Liriani

The real secret to getting it right is to make sure the subject in the foreground is within the focus range. Apply principles of hyper focal distance to decide on subject placement. Also consider compositional rules like the Rule of Thirds and place your subject on one of the intersections. Never centre your foreground subject as it will result in a boring picture that looks static.
wide angle shot
Photo By Sathish J

Look for leading lines running from the distance into the foreground elements like roads, rail way tracks, small streams, lines on pavement etc and bring them into the frame on a diagonal or ‘S’ curve, rather than placing them down the middle. Try shooting vertical compositions with the camera slightly tilted forward – this will let you capture elements from the foreground to the background in focus.

Related Reading


Tuesday, 25 September 2012

Adobe Photoshop Tutorials New World Messiah

Guest Post By:  Giuseppe Parisi

Digital Matte Painting / Illustration:

30% Hand Painting, 70% Photo references

photographic material blended with digital paint done in photoshop to simulate photo-realistic scenes


Adobe Photoshop CS4 and Wacom Intuos4 Tablet

Adobe Photoshop Tutorials New World Messiah By:  Giuseppe Parisi
 A lonely man coming out of a time portal into a desert land

Watch the Making of New World Messiah Video:


Monday, 24 September 2012

Adobe Photoshop Tutorials I Met You There

Guest Post By:  Giuseppe Parisi

Digital Matte Painting / Illustration:

50% Hand Painting, 50% Photo references

photographic material blended with digital paint done in photoshop to simulate photo-realistic scenes


Adobe Photoshop CS4 and Wacom Intuos4 Tablet

 Adobe Photoshop Tutorials I Met You There
 Adobe Photoshop Tutorials I Met You There By:  Giuseppe Parisi
A woman in a red dress walking alone along an empty street of a city at night.

This image is a matte painting which is is an hand-painted illustration enriched with details given by real photographs, wisely merged and manipulated to create a very realistic looking picture.

This illustration comes from a dream I made.

It took a lot of work to be done because I wanted to be faithful to the dream I had, which was very cinematic and moving. I tend to dream rarely and most of the times I never remember my dreams. This time I dreamt of a wonderful scene and I quickly went write down all about it as soon as I awoke.

It was about my mother - passed away 9 months ago - she was there, in the street, late at night... and we met and held each others.Wonderful dream.

The woman in the red dress is actually my mother and the image comes from a photo I took of her a year ago or so.

Watch the Making of I Met You There Video:


 

Sunday, 23 September 2012

Adobe Photoshop Tutorials Energy of Rock

Guest Post By:  Giuseppe Parisi

Digitally Enhanced Portrait + Matte Painting Background

Adobe Photoshop Tutorials Energy of Rock
Adobe Photoshop Tutorials Energy of Rock By:  Giuseppe Parisi

A handsome man standing in front of the camera into a magic blue vortex with a snare drum and drum sticks flating around with stones.

This image is a digitally enahnced portrait which is enriched with details given by real photographs and hand/painted elements, wisely merged and manipulated to create a very realistic looking picture.

Matte Painting info: 

4 photos + Hand Painting [33%]

Exif Data:


Canon 5D Mark II + Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II
Adobe Photoshop CS4 and Wacom Intuos4 Tablet

Lighting info:


2 rim lights and 1 butterfly lightning for frontal fill.
----- Canon 430 Ex II in reflective umbrella 45° above the model @1/4
----- Bare Nikon sb-26 with side goboes on the right behind the model @1/8 +0.3
----- Bare Canon T277 with side goboes @ f/8 on the left behind the model. Triggered via Skyport.

3 takes for the model: 1 for the lifted coat, 1 for the right pose, 1 for the lifted scarf and vest.

Watch the Making of Energy of Rock Video:




Tips for Photographing Through an Airplane Window

1.    Book Yourselves a Window Seat


Many airlines let you choose the seat position, so make sure you book yourselves a window side seat, preferably on the side of the plane that will be away from the sun. Getting to know which side of the plane will be facing the sun could be difficult, but it will help your picture taking process if you are not facing the direct sun. The best seating positions for photography are window side seats which are in front of the airplane wing. If you are on a seat behind the wing the hot air and vapour emitted by the engines could ruin your shots.


airplane window photography
Photo By Kim Seng

2.    Carry your Camera With You


Always carry your camera on person and do not put it either in baggage or in luggage compartment. Since you will be seated near the window, it will be quite a hassle to get your camera out and it will also cause inconvenience to fellow passengers. It is better to have a general purpose zoom lens such as 18 – 135 attached to the camera as you will be able to cover most situations without the need for changing lenses.

3.    Shooting through Glass


a.    Clean the Window Glass


Airplane windows have multiple layers of glass on each window and chances are they might be scratched and dirty. While you cannot do anything about scratches you could clean the window from dust and other debris if any. The flight crew will be able to get you some paper towels or napkins with which you could thoroughly clean the window.

air plane window photography
Photo By Kim Seng

b.    Avoiding Reflections


The trick to avoid reflections from the window appearing in your shot is to shoot at the right angle. If you have a lens hood with you put it on and place your lens as close to the window as possible without touching it. If the lens or the hood touches the window the vibrations from the plane could spoil your shot. Another trick is to wrap the front of your lens hood with a piece of dark cloth (without covering the lens of course), and then place the lens close to the window glass, the dark material will prevent any light from leaking in and will thus eliminate reflections; a handkerchief, towel, a sock, a glove or anything suitable would do.

photographing from an airplane
Photo By Jonas Seaman

c.    Take Pictures Early


Take your pictures early during the flight, as the plane cruises in high altitudes, mist or even ice could form on the window glass making it impossible to take photographs through them.

4.    Camera Settings


a.    Use Manual Focus


The layers of glass just in front of the camera could trick most camera auto focus systems; the problem becomes worse if there are scratches in the glass. If your camera allows manual focus, it is better to focus manually.

how to photograph through an airplane window
Photo By Michael Foley

b.    Turn off Your Flash


Using flash while photographing out of an airplane window is useless; it only causes you problems, any subject you choose is well beyond your flashes effective range and the light produces by the flash could create reflections and flares with light being reflected off the window glass.

c.    Use Fast Shutter Speeds


You will need to use fairly high shutter speed to get sharp pictures when photographing out of a plane window. Anything above 1/500 should be good enough if light conditions permit it is better to use 1/1000. Shift your camera to shutter priority mode (TV) and select 1/1000 as your shutter speed. The camera will adjust aperture and ISO to match the shutter speed.

5.    Subjects for Aerial Photography


There are many good subjects to be photographed out of an airplane window such as the rising and setting sun, cloud formations, rainbows, landscapes down below, islands, another air plane etc. Night photography from an airplane window is yet another interesting option. But it presents a whole other set of challenges which we will discuss in a future article.

photographing from an air plane
Photo By Jamal Afzal

  6.  Secure your Camera


While using your camera during a flight it is always advisable to put the camera strap over your head. The flight could hit some turbulence or bank in one direction or other, else you may be clicking while take-off and landing or taxiying, having the camera secured with the neck strap makes sure you could safely take you hand off your camera in case of an emergency without damaging your equipment.

7.    Follow Rules and Regulations


While photographing in an air plane always keep in mind that there are FAA regulations limiting the use of electronic equipment inside of an air plane, especially during take-offs and landings. Always abide by the instructions given by the flight crew.

Related Reading


Saturday, 22 September 2012

Adobe Photoshop Tutorials At Oblivion's Gates

Guest Post By:  Giuseppe Parisi

Digital Matte Painting / Illustration:

50% Hand Painting, 50% Photo references

photographic material blended with digital paint done in photoshop to simulate photo-realistic scenes


Adobe Photoshop CS4 and Wacom Intuos4 Tablet

Adobe Photoshop Tutorials  At Oblivion's Gates By:  Giuseppe Parisi
A lonely man standing into the light of a fortress gates on the mountains.

Watch the Making of At Oblivion's Gates Video:




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Portrait Photography Tips - How to find a Subject’s Good Side


Do people look the same when photographed from all angles? Is it true that features of most people (including facial features) are not symmetrical? How do I know from which angle to shoot people from? …. These are some of the questions beginners in portraiture often ask.

portrait photography tips
Photo By Sean Molin

First of all no human being is perfect, the majority lack perfect symmetry. Except some professional models with whom you would not be able to tell the difference, everyone has a good side and an even slightly better side; it’s just a matter of severity of the problem from one individual to another. Let us discuss some tips that will help you choose the best angle from which to shoot your subject.

The key to finding a person’s good side is to study his / her face well. Observe closely, also when a person smiles or when expressions change the facial features appear different so ask the model to simply cycle through a series of looks and expressions and study the changes. The side which looks best should be the one that is placed nearer to the light and closer to the camera. Observe the following.

Are the subject’s eyes symmetrical or is one eye larger or rounder than the other, if so then the side with the larger / rounder eye is your subject’s good side.

Observe the person smiling is one side of the mouth curling up more than the other if so then that’s your subject’s good side.

After eyes and lips the third most important thing to consider is your subject’s hair. Does the models hair style have a strong part? If so then pose your model so as to turn the part away from the camera thus more coifs and less scalp will be visible in your frame. Also if the hair covers more of the models ear on one side rather than the other then it is your subject’s good side.

Remember these tips are valid when photographing all people and not just models, in fact ordinary people tend to have more dis-symmetrical features and paying attention to these tips will give more results rather than when photographing professional models who might only have slight variations.

Related Reading


Friday, 21 September 2012

How my dreams burned away

Guest Post By: David Talley

"This is a piece I created to conceptualize the idea of ones dreams floating down a river on a boat, only to be lit on fire and burned away. There's no happy message to the photo, unfortunately."

How my dreams burned away.
How my dreams burned away by David Talley

Zoo Photography Tips – Photographing Wildlife In Captivity


You need not go to deep forests to take amazing wildlife photographs, in fact zoos provide even better chances to safely observe and study the animals at close quarters. There are a variety of subjects in the zoo; it is assured that you will find them at the same place and could spend as much time as you wish with each subject.  Most major cities have zoos and in recent years, increased awareness about the need to conserve these animals has led to scientific studies to provide better conditions to the animals in zoo. Having mentioned the advantages of photographing animals in zoos, now let us discuss the challenges one would face and methods to overcome them. In this article we will discuss about tips to take amazing photographs of animals in the zoo.

zoo photography
Photo By Patrick Bouquet

1.    Respect Zoo Rules


This is perhaps the most important rule and if you will adhere to it then it will save you a lot of trouble and would drastically increase your chances of getting good shots. Remember Zoo rules are not just for the safety of animals but it is more importantly for your own safety. Never jump over railings or fences, do not overstep the boundary lines, and if the zoo rules forbid you from using a flash… well don’t use it. Most animals’ eyes are far more sensitive to light than that of humans and the use of direct flash could cause much pain and trauma to the animals, it can even cause temporary blindness; so be compassionate and do not use flash. It is to be remembered that zoos don’t just cage animals as exhibits; they also house abandoned infants, injured animals and others that are unlikely to survive on their own in wild; Zoos acts like a safe heaven for such animals.

2.    Get Friendly With the Staff


No one knows the inmates and their individual characteristics and preferences better than the zoo staff. Staff members at the zoo spend a lot of time with the animals and they tend to have a deep bond with the animals. Most animals respond well to their commands. They know the times when each animal is liveliest and in good mood, they could tell you the best time of the day to shoot, even call the attention of an animal to you and make them look at the camera, many animals like monkeys actually greet the staff, call out to them for food etc, they communicate via many facial expressions, gestures and body language. Getting friendly with the zoo staff is your ticket to getting exclusive shots of the animals.

tips for photographing at the zoo
Photo By Valerie

3.    Plan Your Shoot – Prioritize


Every zoo will have a detailed map / plan of the zoo grounds with indications as to which type of animals could be found in each area. Have a good look at it and prioritize your shoot accordingly. This will ensure that you do not miss the chance to shoot the most important ones in your list.

zoo photography tips
Photo By Valerie

4.    Visit the Zoo on an Overcast Day


Since it is assured that you would find the animal at the same spot whenever you go, you have the liberty to visit the zoo any day, so plan your visit during an overcast day. As opposed to harsh sunlight with deep shadows and high contrast the light during an overcast day is very soft, producing diffused shadows and more saturated colours making your shots look much better than the ones shot on a clear day. The real reason behind this effect is that the clouds present overhead acts as huge soft-boxes diffusing the sunlight and make it fall on the subject from different angles minimizing contrast.

5.    Time Your Visit


Most animals are very lively during early morning hours and most retreat to some shade and rest when the sun is fully up.. There will also be only fewer visitors around during early morning hours. Also apart from the visiting hours, zoos also have designated feeding times. Most animals rest after being fed. Do consult the staff about the feeding hours of each animal you wish to photograph and time your visit accordingly.

zoo photography techniques
Photo By Valerie

6.    Tips for Avoiding Fences


One of the main challenges shooting at zoo is to avoid fences from spoiling your frames. You could try the following tips to minimize the impact of wired fences. If you are using a compact camera or a DSLR with a lens of relatively small diameter then you could try to put the lens between the wire. Do this with caution as it could either make the animal agitated or curious, in both cases the chances of you getting hurt are high, so use your judgement whether it is appropriate or not in the given situation.

zoo photography tutorial
Photo By Tambako The Jaguar

Use a tele photo zoom lens ideally longer than 200mm and use it in combination with a wide aperture setting and focusing on the subject, this way you have only very limited depth of field and could blur the distracting fence in the foreground so that it is not visible in the frame. One trick is to choose a portion of the fence which is not directly lit by sunlight as it will be easier to blur out than portions which are brightly lit.

7.    Shooting Through Glass


Many a times, while photographing at the zoo, you will be required to shoot animals through thick glass. Shooting through glasses require you to pay attention to certain details. Choose the portion of the glass which is most clear and has fewer scratches or blotches. Clean the glass with a tissue or a piece of cloth, (your handkerchief would do). If you have a lens hood with you use it and place the lens close against the glass. Remember holding your camera parallel to the lens would help avoid reflections.

8.    Get your Backgrounds Right


Getting the right background is vital. Be very careful about what constitutes your background, avoid fences, cages or other man-made objects in the background, changing your shooting angle to a very high position will help you get the ground/grass in the immediate area the animal is in as your background and getting down low would help to get the sky as your background. Using a wider aperture will help blur any unwanted elements from the picture, and if none of these work try a tight crop of the animal by zooming in with your tele lens.

photographing zoo animals
Photo By Valerie

9.    Photograph Other Visitors


In the zoo you will be presented with many opportunities to photograph people, especially children having a fun time with animals, these also make good subjects for photography as you would be able to take candid shots which could capture their reactions  like excitement, surprise, fear etc. Some people would not like to be photographed and so taking permission from them (especially from parents before photographing children) will be a good idea to consider.

10.    Respect Other People


When involved in photography, it is quite common to get fully engrossed in the act so as to be oblivious of what is happening around you. Always make sure that you are not obstructing other people’s views and are not causing them any inconvenience. If you are using a tripod to set up your shot; make sure you are not blocking the walkway or anything. If there are other photographers at the scene and even if they are just people trying to capture a frame or two with their point and shoots or mobile, do wait for your turn and do not rush others. Obeying these rules will help ensure that photography will be allowed in zoos in the future.

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Thursday, 20 September 2012

Photographing Nightscapes

 Guest Post By: Royce Bair

There are many types of night photography. I do a style I call "nightScapes". Most of these are starry night skies with a landscape feature. Some of the land features are often enhanced with light-painting, if it will help improve recognition of the location. I usually expose the stars as points of light, rather than as star trails. Most of my NightScapes are a single exposure, with little Photoshop enhancement, other than to increase contrast in the sky (so that stars stand out brighter against a darker sky).


Nightscape Photography - Stars Over John Moulton Homestead
Nightscape Photography By Royce Bair - Stars Over John Moulton Homestead

My two biggest challenges to this type of night photography are:


1) Finding darkness: 


There are only a few days each month when conditions are optimum for this type of photography. I cannot photograph the stars until at least two hours after sunset, and I must stop at least two hours before sunrise. I must also avoid moon light, because even a quarter moon is 130 times brighter than starlight. This requires me to plan my photography around the cycles of the moon, not to mention unpredictable weather!

Nightscape Photography - Delicate Arch - Milky Way - Stars
Nightscape Photography By Royce Bair - Delicate Arch - Milky Way - Stars

The other challenge to darkness is man-made light pollution. As the earth becomes more populated, finding areas that are not polluted by artificial light can be difficult. Luckily, I live in the south western region of the USA where the air is not only dry, but thinly populated.

2) Overcoming darkness: 


Because starlight is 40 million times weaker than sunlight, it produces huge technical challenges. To stop the effects of the earth's rotation, which blurs the stars and produces star trails, I must keep my time exposure between eight and 30 seconds (depending on the focal length of the lens). In order to get enough light to properly expose the night sky in this short of time, I must use expensive lens with the largest possible apertures, and expensive digital cameras with large image sensors that allow for extremely high ISO numbers (i.e. 6400 and above) without producing high image noise.

Nightscape Photography - Jackson Lake Tetons
Nightscape Photography By Royce Bair - Jackson Lake Tetons

Despite these challenges, the rewards can be breathtaking and satisfying. The long exposures and high sensitivity of my cameras always reveal much more than my eye can see. When I see the beauty of the universe, set behind the "window frame" of some of our home planet's natural features, I'm often in awe of the Creator's handiwork.

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Wednesday, 19 September 2012

That 70's Crime Show Opening Sequence


Guest Post By: Jo Christian Oterhals

Sometimes it's fun to upload the stuff that came out very different from what you originally imagined. This started as a silhoutte idea for the Twitter Photo Challenge group.

Photo By: Jo Christian Oterhals

I imagined a person -- a cowboy really -- standing against a large and backlit window, completely silhouetted, smoking revolver in one hand and somewhere in the middle of the blackness that should have been his face: A cigar glow.

Now, that's an idea that demands a lot of props. When I set out to find a toy store with all the necessary equipment for cowboys, I discovered that not only was Cowboy equipment scarce, but even the revolver was hard to find. Yes, the toy stores are filled with replicas of Uzi's and pirate guns, but not cowboy stuff. Obviously cowboys are out of fashion. I managed to find the gun on this photo, however, and went home to figure out what I could do with just this one prop.

I walked out into the garage and flipped up a semi-transparent reflector. That's the background here. In front of the camera, to the right, was a CTO gelled flash. It was placed pretty close to the reflector.

I placed my hand with the gun somewhere between the flash and the camera. I lit a cigarette and put it into the barrel of the gun and waited until I thought the smoke looked good. Then I released the shutter.

I had set the camera to manual exposure, 1/60 and f/9 I think, to ensure that no ambient light would be registered.

Afterwards I adjusted white balance like a crazy man in Adobe Camera Raw. There I also played around with the black levels and the brightness, until i had this very over the top, 70's looking image. The reason the background color seem graduated is light falling off -- the flash was placed very close to the reflector and obviously lit the closest part better than the parts on the far right. The flash was in ETTL mode and set to 2 stops overexposure.

I also did some cloning in Photoshop Elements to remove some of the cigarette sticking out of the barrel, and remove the circular edge of the reflector (which was visible in the upper left corner).

The smoke didn't become as visible as I wanted, so I used the backup plan: I had, from the same angle, same gun, same setup really made a photo where the smoke was emphasized, There the background flash was switched off. Instead I put a snooted flash in from the left, blue gelled, so that the smoke was strong blue on a dark black background. In Elements I inverted it, adjusted hue and saturation and put it on a layer with blend mode Overlay onto this picture.

The end result looks nothing like the Jonah Hex-ish cool looking cowboy picture I originally imagined, but at least I got a picture today too.

Related Reading


Infra red Photography using Point and Shoot Camera and DIY Infrared Filter

In one of our earlier articles we have discussed – How to Take Infrared Photos Without Modifying Your Digital Camera. However there was a minimum requirement of a DSLR and an Infrared filter. Not every one of us posses these accessories and as is everything else related to photography; they are pricey. So here in this article we will discuss about attempting infrared photography the DIY route using a point and shoot digital camera.

infrared photography with point and shoot camera
infrared photography with point and shoot camera

Most digital cameras have sensors which are sensitive to infra-red light; however they also do feature a filter in front of the sensor whose sole purpose is to filter out infrared radiation from the light entering the sensor. This is done so as to prevent infra-red rays from deteriorating the quality of the pictures captured. But it is to be noted that even with the filter on; the cameras are still capable of recording infrared rays the sensitivity of the sensor to infrared rays will however be inversely proportional to the density of the blocking filter used in the camera. So it should be now clear to you that different digital cameras have different levels of sensitivity to infrared rays.

The Trick to Shoot Infrared


The actual trick we employ so as to counter the effects of the digital cameras in built infrared blocking filters effect is to use yet another filter in front of the lens which will cut off all visible light and only let infra-red rays pass. We will soon see how to make such a filter ourselves.

Checking the Digital Camera’s Infrared Sensitivity


As our aim is to shoot infrared pictures, the more sensitive the camera is to infrared the better. To check the sensitivity first thing we need will a source emitting infrared rays; most remote controls for house hold electronic appliances use infrared rays. So get hold of a TV or similar remote, point it towards your digital camera and either observe through the LCD screen or take a picture. The following example shows cameras with different levels of infra red sensitivity.

checking infrared sensitivity of digital cameras
checking infrared sensitivity of digital cameras

The picture in the right side top shows lower and the picture in the right side bottom show higher sensitivity towards infrared rays. So camera number two will be a better candidate for infra red photography.

Essential Supplies for DIY Infrared Filter


We only need certain easily obtainable things for our diy infrared filter. An unexposed, developed slide film will be needed to act as the filter. And we will require a small piece of black chart paper to make an attachment that would fit the digital camera lens. A pair of scissors to cut and shape the chart paper and a roll of black insulation tape is all we need to make our very own infrared filter.

accessories for infrared photography
accessories for infrared photography

Making the DIY Infrared Filter and Holder


Make a cylinder by rolling the chart paper, the size of the cylinder is critical, it should be neither tight nor loose. If it is tight, you might end up damaging your camera’s auto focus drive and if it is loose it will fall off or it will let light leaks happen.  Once you have rolled the paper, make tiny slits on the front end and fold them in to make a holder for the filter.

exposed and developed slide film to make infrared filter
exposed and developed slide film to make infrared filter

Cut out the unexposed, developed slide film (which is black, usually found on the end of slides) so as to fit the cylinder we just made using chart paper. It should fit snugly into the tube, so that it doesn’t come off easily.  You might want to make a couple more of these as you will need to stack more than one filter to get the desired effect. Now that you have your infra red filter ready it’s time to give it a try.

diy infrared filter
diy infrared filter

Shooting Infra red Photographs


The best time to shoot infra red is when sun is at its peak.  As we have already mentioned that the infra red filter we made will effectively cut off most of the visible light from entering the camera. So we are actually aiming to capture the infra red rays emitted by the living things which include plants and animals; which will result in very bright clouds and also the foliage appearing white.

point and shoot infrared
point and shoot infrared
  1. Even in bright sunlight we will require extremely long exposure times so using a tripod or any other stable place to hold your camera steadily is important.
  2. Disable auto ISO selection and Set ISO to ISO 100 
  3. Set your camera's white balance to any mode other than Auto White Balance.
  4. Set the camera’s shooting mode to Black and White
  5. Use your camera’s timer to prevent shake when pressing the shutter.

Certain Features I Wish My Camera Had


There are certain features which will be immensely helpful; but some cameras have it and some don’t, for example Manual Focus and Manual Exposure Control, Custom White Balance, and RAW Shooting. The point and shoot camera I had with me unfortunately did not have these features. And I found it very limiting as no matter which mode I select, the camera will always select the widest aperture (f/2.8 in my case). I would have preferred to use a narrow aperture of f/11 or f/16 which will enable me to shoot using longer shutter speeds and also increase the depth of field in the shots. I ended up shooting at f/2.8 but managed to extend shutter speeds a bit more by adding another layer of filter material to my set up.

Second problem was that of manual focus I tried the method of half click, obtain focus, place the filter and then press down fully to take the shot. But this strategy didn’t work as the camera locked the exposure down at half press and used those settings even with the filter so I got a complete black frame.  And when I attached the filter to the lens and then released the shutter using the timer I could see the camera clearly struggling with focus and I had no clue where it has locked.

The picture given at the top of this article is of the light house located near my house in Alappuzha, shot with a Sony Cybershot DSC-S780.